A quick and quirky getaway to Port Townsend

Walk south on Polk (toward the bay), then turn left on Water to find the Type Townsend Studio. Don’t be fooled by the words “typewriter supplier” here — this shop is so much more. Yes, restored typewriters and other antique machines abound, but Type Townsend is also filled with fantastic small gifts. (This writer got one friend a tiny typewriter key with her first initial on it and the perfect vintage postcard). Should you find yourself in need of some miniature toys, pins, vintage spoons, vases or handmade cards, this is the place.

Are you mortal? If so, head across the street to KALMA. You’ll be greeted by posters, prints, gifts, a community grief altar and a beautiful memory tree decorated with photos of lost loved ones. The shop is part vintage clothing store and part community-oriented grieving space; as a whole, it’s an exquisite exploration of mortality. The back room, called the Parlor, is designed as a third space that supports mourning groups, a resource library, crafting sessions and more. Do your darker, more curious side a favor and just visit.

Take that popcorn and head southeast on Taylor St. toward Water St., then out onto the pier at Union Wharf. There, under some shade, you’ll find Gunther, the fully articulated 42-foot skeleton of a gray whale who washed ashore near Port Ludlow in May, 2019. Gunther was lovingly restored in a massive community effort led by a local veterinarian during the pandemic. At night, he’s all lit up.

When you’re done admiring Gunther and the view, wander back along Water St. to check out any of the shops — antique stores and art galleries abound — that may have caught your eye. If you have a sweet tooth, Elevated Ice Cream Co. (627/631 Water St.) toward the end of Water St. offers fudge and nostalgic candy as well as somewhat unusual ice cream flavors like golden milk and white chocolate rose.

A 5-minute drive (or half-an-hour walk) will take you to Fort Worden Historical State Park, a former military base originally constructed to protect Puget Sound from invasion by sea. Alongside Forts Casey and Flagler, it was part of what was known as the “Triangle of Fire.” Thankfully, no shots were ever fired here, and today the abandoned batteries make for a fascinating, if eerie, site to explore. You can also hike up the beach bluffs, admire the Point Wilson Lighthouse and keep your eye out for otters, seals, whales and eagles as you admire the inlet and environs.

💡Pro tip: Also check out the 1988 public sculpture garden “Memory’s Vault,” which was designed by artist Richard Turner and features the poems of Sam Hamill, cofounder of local poetry gem Copper Canyon Press.